The peaceful quiet of Sapa was gently interrupted by stirring sounds of the village beginning to wake. The news, morning chatter and sounds of cowbells echoed through the mountain mist. The traditional two stringed Đàn nguyệt guitars played in the distance transported me to another time. And I wondered if my granny woke up with these peaceful feelings as a child before she was forced South.

The Red Dao people live in the area. Lowly status but more advanced than me. They are almost all trilingual artists, farmers and craftsman. They tell us that they love what visitors do for the economy but worry that their children will forget about their culture now that TikTok has taken over their humble abodes. 

We were invited into the home of a proud woman. Although cold and mostly empty, the warmth that she and her friends showed us was comforting. And the small cup of rice wine that brought a heat to my chest will always live in my heart.